~ Originally written in March 2024 - updated to reflect current practices and perspectives.
In the haircare realm, Black chemists hold profound cultural and scientific significance - especially within Black-owned haircare brands. Their impact goes far beyond technical expertise. It lies in a deep understanding of Black hair textures, lived experience, and the cultural context surrounding black hair.
Hair is not simply biology. For many of us, it is history, identity, resistance, and self-expression. When formulation is informed by both science and culture, the result is care that feels authentic, intentional, and truly effective.
Here’s why the presence of Black chemists is essential to the success and integrity of Black haircare brands.
Cultural Understanding
Black hair is more than a protein strand; it is deeply intertwined with culture, beauty, and lived experience. Black chemists bring a nuanced understanding of this history, allowing them to create formulations that respect the diversity of textures, styles, and preferences within the Black community. This cultural fluency cannot be learned from textbooks alone; it is lived.
Authentic Product Development
Black chemists often have firsthand experience with some of the most common concerns associated with Black hair: dryness, breakage, buildup, and scalp health. That lived experience informs smarter formulation decisions. From cleansers that won’t strip the hair to conditioners that don’t weigh hair down, their insight leads to products designed with intention, not assumption.
Representation Matters
Visibility matters - especially in scientific spaces where Black professionals have historically been underrepresented. Black chemists challenge outdated narratives about who belongs in STEM and who holds expertise in beauty science. Their presence inspires future generations while reinforcing pride, ownership, and possibility within our communities.
Cultural Competence in Brand Development
The role of Black chemists extends far beyond the lab. Their perspective helps shape how brands communicate - ensuring that ingredient choices, education, and messaging resonate authentically. This cultural competence allows brands to avoid performative marketing and instead build trust through accuracy, respect, and credibility.
Increasingly, we are also seeing innovation emerge in direct response to long-standing health concerns within the Black beauty space. Growing bodies of research and public discourse have raised important questions about the cumulative exposure to certain chemicals historically used in hair relaxers, braiding hair, and other beauty products - particularly as they relate to endocrine disruption, respiratory health, and long-term wellness. In response, formulators, chemists, and material scientists are actively exploring non-toxic, lower- exposure alternatives for braiding hair and haircare products designed with Black women’s health at the forefront.
This moment underscores why Black chemists matter and must have a meaningful stake in product formulation and material innovation. When the communities most affected by these products are also shaping the science behind them, safety is no longer reactive - it becomes personal and foundational. This is not simply about aesthetics or trends; it is about stewardship -over our hair, our health, and the lives shaped by the products we create.
Driving Meaningful Innovation
Innovation thrives in diverse environments. Black chemists bring perspectives shaped by both science and lived experience, fueling innovation that addresses real needs - not trends. Their contributions help brands create solutions that evolve alongside the community they serve.
The presence of Black chemists in haircare formulation is not a “nice to have.” It is essential. Their cultural insight, technical expertise, and commitment to representation shape products that are relevant and effective.
As we continue to advocate for accountability across industries, it’s important to recognize and celebrate the invaluable role Black chemists play in shaping the future of beauty and personal care.
I also want to offer a special acknowledgment to our Black chemist, whose expertise and guidance continue to inform the development of our custom blends for locs and microlocs. Her expertise is foundational to how we approach formulation - intentionally, responsibly, and with long-term health in mind.